TRADITIONAL FERMENTED AND PRESERVED
FISH PRODUCTS
Ngari · Hentak · Tungtap · Gnuchi
The Eastern Himalayan area - eastern
Nepal, Bhutan, Darjeeling, Sikkim, and the North-Eastern Indian states of
Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Tripura, Mizoram, and Manipur - have
historically lacked access to refrigeration. Freshwater fish caught from
rivers, streams, and lakes are highly perishable, so indigenous communities in
these areas developed low-cost biopreservation methods using natural
ingredients (salt, turmeric, smoke).
Four Broad Categories of Traditional Fish Products
|
Category |
Examples |
Basic Principle |
|
Smoked & sun-dried |
Gnuchi, Suka ko maacha |
Salt/turmeric cure + slow smoke-drying above a hearth |
|
Sun-dried / salted (non-fermented) |
Sidra, Sukuti, Karati, Bordia, Lashim |
Washing, salting, and open sun-drying only |
|
Fermented (paste/whole) |
Ngari, Hentak, Tungtap, Shidal |
Anaerobic packing in sealed earthen pots; microbial
fermentation |
Microbes involved in fish fermentation
• Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB): Lactococcus
lactis (subsp. lactis & cremoris), Lactobacillus
plantarum, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Enterococcus faecium, E.
faecalis, Pediococcus pentosaceus, Weissella confusa.
• Spore-formers / Micrococci: Bacillus
subtilis, Bacillus pumilus, Micrococcus spp.
• Yeasts: Candida spp. (C.
chiropterorum, C. bombicola), Saccharomycopsis spp.
• Halophiles/others (in deep-fermented
pastes such as ngari): Staphylococcus cohnii, Staphylococcus carnosus,
Tetragenococcus halophilus.
These organisms carry out
proteolysis, acid production, and flavour/aroma development, while
simultaneously suppressing spoilage and pathogenic organisms.
1. Ngari
A non-salted, long-fermented
whole-fish product which is the signature flavour base of Meitei cuisine (Meitei
community). These are eaten daily as a
side dish with cooked rice and are a key flavouring base for Eromba and Singju,
which are traditional Manipuri dishes.
Sold in local markets, typically packed inside earthen pots.
Prepared by Anaerobic solid-state
fermentation of whole fish, Puntius sophore (this is a small freshwater
fish, locally known as Phabou nga)
1. Fish are rubbed with salt and
sun-dried for 3–4 days.
2. Dried fish are washed briefly and
spread out on bamboo mats.
3. The inner wall of an earthen pot is
coated with a layer of mustard oil (to seal pores and aid anaerobic sealing).
4. The pot is filled with the dried
fish, which is then pressed down tightly by foot to remove air pockets.
5. The pot is sealed airtight and stored
at room temperature for 4–6 months (can be kept for over a year).
Characteristics include Soft texture with a strong, pungent,
distinctive aroma, light brown to golden-brown colour, and whole fish remain
visually intact but softened by fermentation.
Microflora involved
Bacteria: Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris,
Lactobacillus plantarum, Enterococcus faecium, L. fructosus, L. amylophilus, L.
coryniformis subsp. torquens, Bacillus subtilis, B. pumilus, Micrococcus sp.
Yeasts: Candida spp., Saccharomycopsis spp.
2. Hentak
This is a fermented fish-and-plant paste with
therapeutic/nutritional value used in Manipur, consumed as a curry ingredient
and used as a condiment, and traditionally given to women in the final stages
of pregnancy or to patients recovering from sickness/injury.
(Image Credit: The
Manipuri Foodie @facebook)
Prepared by Solid-state paste fermentation of fish, Esomus
danricus (finger-sized freshwater fish) and petioles of Alocasia
macrorhiza (giant taro)
1. Finger-sized fish are washed
thoroughly, sun-dried, and crushed into a fine powder.
2. Petioles of Alocasia macrorhiza
are cut into pieces, washed, and exposed to sunlight for 1 day.
3. An equal amount (roughly 1:1) of cut
petiole pieces is mixed with the powdered fish.
4. The mixture is made into a ball-like
thick paste.
5. The paste balls are kept in an
earthen pot, sealed tightly, and fermented at room temperature for 7–9 days.
Characteristics of Hentak are paste-like consistency with a
strongly pungent aroma and are ball-shaped when freshly prepared.
Microflora involved
Bacteria: Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, Lactobacillus plantarum,
Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus fructosus, Lactobacillus amylophilus,
Lactobacillus coryniformis subsp. torquens, Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus
pumilus, Micrococcus sp.
Yeasts: Candida spp., Saccharomycopsis spp.
3. Tungtap
This is a salted, short-fermented
fish paste used in Meghalaya by the people of the Khasi Hills. Consumed
as a pickle and used in curries and often ground/mixed with chillies and other
spices before serving as a side condiment.
Prepared by salted fermentation of whole fish, Danio spp.
(small freshwater fish)
1. Sun-dried fish are washed briefly and
mixed thoroughly with salt.
2. The salted fish are packed into an
earthen pot, which is sealed airtight.
3. The pot is left to ferment at room
temperature for 4–7 days.
Characteristics of Tungtap: a semi-solid paste with a sharp,
salty-fermented aroma.
Microflora involved
Bacteria: Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, Lactobacillus plantarum,
Enterococcus faecium, L. fructosus, L. amylophilus, L. coryniformis subsp.
torquens, Lactobacillus puhozihii (identified specifically from tungtap and
shown to have bacteriocinogenic potential), Bacillus subtilis, B. pumilus,
Micrococcus sp.
Yeasts: Candida spp., Saccharomycopsis spp.
4. Gnuchi
This is a smoked and dried (not
fermented) fish product of the Lepcha community of Sikkim & Darjeeling
hills. They cook this into traditional
fish curries and soups
Prepared by Smoking and slow drying of fish, Schizothorax
richardsonii, Labeo dero, Acrossocheilus spp., Channa sp. (riverine
species)
2. Fish are degutted, then mixed with
salt and turmeric powder, and separated according to size.
3. Bigger fish are spread in an
upside-down manner on a bamboo rack called sarhang, positioned above the
earthen kitchen oven.
4. Smaller fish are hung one after
another on a bamboo strip above the same oven.
5. Fish are smoked continuously above
the earthen oven for 10–14 days.
6. The finished gnuchi is kept at room
temperature for 2–3 months and eaten as curry.
Characteristics of Gnuchi - Firm, chewy texture with a smoky
aroma.
Microflora Identified
Bacteria: Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, L. lactis subsp. lactis,
Lactobacillus plantarum, Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Enterococcus faecium,
Enterococcus faecalis, Pediococcus pentosaceus.
Yeasts: Candida chiropterorum, Candida bombicola, Saccharomycopsis
spp.
|
Feature |
Ngari |
Hentak |
Tungtap |
Gnuchi |
|
Region and Community |
Manipur Meitei |
Manipur |
Meghalaya Khasi |
Sikkim/Darjeeling Lepcha |
|
Fish used |
Puntius sophore |
Esomus danricus |
Danio spp. |
Schizothorax spp., Labeo dero |
|
Plant additive |
None |
Alocasia macrorhiza
petioles |
None |
None (salt + turmeric) |
|
Process type |
Anaerobic pot fermentation (whole fish) |
Paste fermentation (powder + petiole) |
Salted pot fermentation (whole fish) |
Smoking + sun/hearth drying |
|
Duration |
4–6 months |
7–9 days |
4–7 days |
10–14 days smoking |
|
Physical form |
Whole soft fermented fish |
Moist ball-like paste |
Semi-solid paste |
Firm smoked whole/degutted fish |
|
Special uses |
Daily staple, Eromba,
Singju |
Given to pregnant
women/convalescents |
Pickle/curry base |
Curry, soup |
Biochemical Changes
• Proteolysis and flavour development - During fermentation,
endogenous fish enzymes (cathepsins, calpains) and microbial proteases from Lactobacillus
and Bacillus species break down muscle proteins into peptides and free
amino acids (e.g., glutamic acid, lysine, glycine). This is the main source of
the characteristic umami taste and strong aroma of ngari, hentak, and tungtap.
• Mechanisms of bio preservation –
1. Lactic acid accumulation: LAB ferment residual carbohydrates
into lactic and acetic acid, lowering pH and inhibiting spoilage/pathogenic
organisms.
2. Salting & drying: Reduces water activity (aw),
suppressing growth of pathogens.
3. Anaerobic
packing: Tight compaction in sealed earthen pots (ngari, hentak, tungtap)
creates an oxygen-free environment that favours facultative/obligate anaerobic
LAB over aerobic spoilage flora.
4. Bacteriocin
production: Certain isolated strains (e.g., Lactobacillus puhozihii from
tungtap) produce antimicrobial peptides that further suppress competing and
pathogenic bacteria.
5. Smoking
(gnuchi): Deposits antimicrobial phenolic compounds and reduces surface
moisture, extending shelf-life without a sealed anaerobic fermentation step.
References
Thapa, N. (2016). Ethnic fermented and preserved fish
products of India and Nepal. Journal of Ethnic Foods, 3(2), 69–77.